Showing posts with label music. Show all posts
Showing posts with label music. Show all posts

I'm Krishna the dark-skinned snake-charmer


 This summer during my annual trip in India I went to Shantiniketan, and fulfilled my heart's desire to meet the Bauls of Bengal and record their songs. This was to a great extent possible thanks to Soumya-da, who also kindly put me up in his house, Jorabari. Laxman Das Baul, a lovely person and a fantastic singer and musician, touched me deeply with his renderings. Here's a song I take great pleasure in singing, thanks to him. I've translated the song to the best of my capacities, trying to convey the lilt and rhythm of the Bengali version. And I've uploaded the song on sound cloud for music lovers.

Laxman in his house, tuning his dotara




https://soundcloud.com/arunima-choudhury/amar-nam-kalo-krishno-bede






















আমার ঘর বাড়ি নাই , সকল ঘরে বেরাই
আমি সাপ ধরি বন জঙ্গলে হ্রদে,
আমার নাম কালো কৃষ্ণ বেদে ।। 

যত ঘর দেখ সকলি আমার, 
সকল ঘরে আমার সমান অধিকার  
আমি করি সাপের খেলা, দেখে কুলবালা,  
গলার মোতিমালা খুলে দেই আমারে ।।  

ডোরা, বোড়া, চিতি আর অজগর 
কুশল করে ধরি অতি বিষধর।  
আমি দেখি সাপের খরা , দিই ধুলোপড়া 
তখন কুঁচে পরা সাপ ধরি অবলে ।। 

নীলকণ্ঠ বলে শোন বলি রাই, 
ওই বেদিয়ার বেসে তোমার কালো কানাই  
তুমি দুর কর রোষ , হও হে সন্তোষ 
তোমার হৃদি ভরা ধন ধর হে হৃদে ।। 

I have no house to call my own,
Yet I wander from home to home,
I catch snakes, in woods forests and lakes,
I’m Krishna, the dark-skinned charmer of snakes

Every house you see is mine,
I have equal rights in every house.
The village women seeing me play with snakes,
Gift me their pearl necklaces.

The most venomous of snakes,
I bend to my will . Boa, viper and krait, 
I catch with skill.On their raised hoods,
I sprinkle some dust. They wilt to the earth,
And I hold them with ease.

Says the blue throated one “listen o Radha,
In the garb of the snake-charmer is your dark Kanhaiya. 
Let go of your anger. Be at peace.  
Embrace in your heart your heart’s bliss. 





Bollywood in Bamako



 Ah Bollywood, Bollywood, you have enraptured the imagination of people through time and space. Your heroes jumping from rooftops, single-handedly disabling dozens of armed bandits, your heroines in body hugging blouses and artfully draped saris,  batting their eyelids and casting languorous glances from kohl rimmed eyes have lightened men’s miseries and made them dream of a happier clime. Here it suffices to feel an emotion to break into song, and go dancing through meadows and over hills. Here love triumphs over the barriers of class and caste, the wicked are punished and the enemy eventually contrite.

And Bollywood has a very special place in the heart of the citizens of Bamako , the capital of Mali. Mali is a country in the west of Africa; thousands of kilometres away from India, on the other side of the Arabian sea.  I am quite sure only about 1 percent of Indians have heard about it and 1 percent of Indians is already 1000000000 people. It’s a country of diverse ethnic groups such as Fulas, Bobos, Bozos, Dogons, Malinkes, Soninkes, Bamanas, each with their history and language, customs and traditions. Here the national language is Bambara, which a Hindi speaking employee in the Indian embassy of Bamako told  me did not in anyway resemble Hindi,  like other Indian languages did. ” This language is absolutely meaningless,” he assured me.    And yet these people whose language does not resemble any Indian language throb to the rhythm of Bollywood beats.


 One of the cult films in Bamako is Don, released in 1978, starring Amitabh Bachhnan; the tall, lanky, actor of the seventies and eighties.  His onscreen personality was synonymous to that of the angry, young man who is the avenger of the innocent. Amitabh Bacchan was and is a household name in India, which is in the order of things. .  But in Bamako too he is almost as popular though he is better known as Don, like the name of the action-thriller film where he plays the role of the hero as well as the villain.  The other film and hero which rivals the fame of Don is Disco Dancer known here as Jimmy with Mithun Chakrabarty in the leading role of a pop star Jimmy, released in 1982. In 1978 I wasn’t even 10 years old and in 1982 when I was in my terrible teens , “ Jimmy, Jimmy aja, aja aja , aja or I am a disco dancer,”  blared from every loudspeaker in town. I remember going with my cousin to see this film in a decrepit film hall in Bengal and being mesmerised by Mithun in crotch hugging white, bell bottoms, gyrating amidst flashing blue, green and pink strobe lights .  The  café-au-lait complexioned, wavy- haired hero with the muscles of  Rambo, was my heart-throb for quite some time.


Mamadou is a young artisan who has a small shop in N’goloni, the colony of artisans. I had gone there with my companion when he and his friend invited us for tea. Here the tea ceremony is a long drawn out affair. The tea leaves are brewed thrice  in a small metal kettle on an equally small brasier . The first brew is very strong and the Malians say that it’s as strong as death, the second brew is a little milder and is as good as life, and the last brew is as sweet as love. When you sit through these three brews you get ample time to get acquainted with your tea-mates . We thus came to know Mamadou and his friend both stoic philosophers in spite of their young age.

The conversation turned to music and films. “Hindu films are the best,” he exclaimed.  “Indeed!” I replied trying to puzzle out how films of Parvathy or Shiva could interest a young Muslim Malian of 25 years.
“I love Jimmy. Great dance, Great music! “ he enthused.  
 “Jimmy?” I echoed, even more bemused. I didn’t know any Hindu divinity by that name.                    
“ Yes, Jimmy, Jimmy aja, aja, aja.”
It took me a few seconds to make the connection, and then I replied with, “I am a disco dancer.”
“Yes,”  he beamed.
“You have seen Jimmy?”
“Yes!”
“But Jimmy is an old film! I saw it in my teens!”
“Everybody knows Jimmy here,” replied Mamadou. 

During the rest of the conversation I gathered that Hindu is equivalent to Indian,  and that Jimmy in Mali  has the same aura as Elvis Presley.  Thus a generation which wasn’t even born when Disco Dancer was made, has been infected with the Jimmy fever. In my mind I saw thousands of pirated copies of Disco Dancer circulating in the lanes and by lanes of Bamako. His friend, a charming young man with dreadlocks,  who rapped for us a song of his own composition in Bambara,  was not of the same opinion. He was a fervent fan of Don,  

Since then I’ve heard a waiter reminisce  about how excited his friends were whenever a Hindu film came to town and how they would go three or four times to see the same film.  To prove his point he hummed the tune of a song sung by Kishore Kumar in one of Rajesh Khanna’s film;  Zindagi ka safar, Hai iye kaisa safar. It' a melodious, philosophical song which says that the journey of life is strange indeed, impossible to foresee and to understand.   This was also a very popular song during my teens.

 While house hunting  I came across a Franco-Malian lady proprietor, an impatient, snappish person who was transformed when she came to know I was from India, the land of Bollywood. She turned to her brother and said, “Remember how we would climb up on the terrace to see Indian films,” then turning towards me and saying, “I used to live in  Mopti and there would be open air projections of films near our house.  It was wonderful. There was this film about a friendship between  elephants and an orphan who grows up to own a circus.  She looked at me expectantly, “Hathi mere Sathi,” (Elephant my friend)  I volunteered hopefully. It’s a film of the 70s which was a big hit with children. I went to see it when I was about seven or eight years old with my mother.  “Exactly,”  she confirmed.


And besides them there have been taxi drivers, teachers working in the French school, doctors, house help, who have unanimously expressed their love for Bollywood’s ravishing heroines,  action packed stories and the mesmerizing songs and dances. However most of the films they have spoken to me about date from the seventies and eighties, and it’s Amitabh Bacchan, Rajesh Khanna, Zeenat Aman, Hema Malini, Mithun Chakraborty who are the evergreen heroes and heroines. Contemporary films are less appreciated. Some of the critiques are that they have too many songs and dances, are not traditional, do not have good action and are not as gay as the old films.

So Bollywood is the bridge between Bombay and Bamako, and the ambassadors from India are the actors and actresses of the seventies and eighties. The Hindi and Hindu gentleman at the Indian embassy who thinks that Bambara is gibberish would be surprised to learn that the strangeness of Hindi has not deterred Malians from appreciating films made in this alien tongue.

Arunima Choudhury

Of chance encounters and budding friendships


I met this young Bengali speaking French man in a village in the North of France during a music festival where I had gone to work as a translator cum facilitator for a group of singers from Bengal. One of the singers, Abbas fakir disgusted by the food that was being dished out in the canteen, (which was not that bad really but  just not cooked in the Bengali way, that is to say the chicken gravy did not have the shimmer of oil floating on top of a thick reddish-yellowish sauce,  fried aubergines and potatoes were replaced by grated carrots and boiled cauliflower with mayonnaise, and other items which were just not palatable to a seasoned Indian palate, fostered on spices and chillies and rich, thick gravies), pushed aside his plate and told me, "Didi, I cannot eat this food. Let's go to the Indian stand on the fair ground. There is dal and rice and papad.!" Abbas was the baby of the group; with a head full of dreadlocks and a luxuriant beard coming down to his chest,  he was thoroughly spoiled  by his mother and his  coterie of sister-in laws. Though everybody else in the group had eaten the same food and I was tired , I said, "Ok, come , let's go and see what we find." We walked down to the stall serving Indian food which was in full swing. I ready to translate Abbas' desire into French asked him in Bengali what he wanted to eat. Abbas regally  pointed out his choice and a handsome  young men noted down his order. Before handing him his plate heaped with rice and dal and pakodas he asked Abbas in perfect Bengali, "Ar kichu neben?" (Do you want anything else?) Abbas finding it quite natural at being spoken to in Bengali by a French man thousands of kilometers away from Bengal asked for some pickles and walked away to join some friends at a table nearby.  I ,  finding it delightfully unnatural was nicely flabbergasted and stuttered, "You speak Bengali?"
"Yes," he replied with a perfectly charming smile, "I am learning."
 "How come?"
" I spent my childhood in Bengal..",
 "Really," I said, and looking at him more closely spotted a necklace of wooden beads around his neck and a very discreet tuft of hair at the back of his head.  . I thought "the Hare Krishna movement" but did not delve into it further. In spite of the crowd milling around us we snatched a few moments  to converse  and I learnt that he played the khol. This enchanted me even further taking me back to my childhood in Bengal where each morning when the air was still cool and the sun barely up,  a group of vaishnavas winded down the streets chanting the name of Hari to the accompaniment of cymbals and khols. We exchanged names, addresses and to make the encounter even more marvellous I found that we both lived in the South of France at the foothills of the Pyrenees.

I got back home and like many addresses given and taken, it stayed in my notebook, a dormant potential. Then a couple of days ago when I was feeling ringed in by the mass of mountains, sinking into the torpor of summer heat and good food and empty days I called up Srimurti . He was as charming as ever and we decided to meet at his place in Mirepoix about 45 Km from  our house. It was also a nice opportunity for my friend and I to bike through the undulating countryside of vineyards and blue hills rearing in the distance and the solid battlements of Cathar fortresses etched against the sky. We stopped on the way in a little village to visit an old church and broke the silence by singing. Our hesitating voices  reflected and amplified by the  the ribbed vault, expanded to fill up the empty space. Then in about half an hour we were in Mirepoix at Srimurti's house.

Right from the beginning it was easy, familiar but also to a certain extent surreal because of the  unexpectedness of the situation. He introduced to his wife, a petite, charming young French woman who spoke fluent Oriya because she had  grown up in Bhuvaneshwar,  to his children who were called Vinod and Gauranga ( my cousin in Bengal is also called Gauranga ) and to  his elderly friend krishnamurti who though dressed in a shorts and a t-shirt had a  tilak  drawn on his forehead and a luxuriant tiki at the back of his head, both signs sported by Vaishnavites all over India. Though I was enchanted I must also say that I was a little wary.  I had seen quite a few films where westerners following any of the branches of Indian spirituality were portrayed as weirdos. But they were perfectly at ease and put us at ease too. We chatted and laughed and had couscous for lunch with a vegetarian stew where cubes  of paneer replaced  the usual   chunks of meat. When I laughingly pointed out that it was not very Indian Srimurti  replied that it was because his father was Kabil from Algeria and the blend of couscous with paneer gravy was his version of fusion food.   On seeing my expression of incredulity and to baffle me even further he added good-humouredly that his mother was Vietnamese. Since I went on looking at him, he  kindly explained  that his father who used to live in Paris had enlisted in the French army as a means of escaping from the narrow confines of his condition.  While he was posted in Australia he had met his mother and  come across the writings of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, a fifteenth century Bengali saint. The next step then had been to the saint's birthplace, a remote village in the north of Bengal.

 My journey from India to France which I have a tendency to make  much ado about now paled in comparison with the physical and spiritual journey of a man who had travelled across continents and cultures to embrace a way of life and thought so far removed from his own. I felt at home with my new friends, certainly because like me their reality consisted of reconciling vastly disparate worlds. I  also admired their courage in living according to their beliefs, and in the process being branded as freaks or marginals by many.

After lunch we spread a dhurrie in the living room, Srimurti brought out his khol and his book of Bengali songs, Krisnamurthy took up a pair of cymbals, my friend settled down comfortably in a corner to observe and take photos. Srimurti struck the first note on his khol, the cymbals joined in and we set sail on a musical journey swaying to the lilting rhythm of the khol and melodious voice of the singers    .  I could not help but join in. My friend got a few pictures of me eyes closed, grimacing like a monkey, hands raised in the air like a professional singer.

The afternoon  drew to a close, time to drive back home. We parted company joyously with the promise to meet again. 

Arunima Choudhury

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